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In my last article, I mentioned how important proper bicycle fit is to me, and how I compare the geometries of bikes with different frame geometry when I start looking for a decent ride. Of course, some of you may have asked how I got to the ‘proper bicycle fit’ part — this article outlines my experiences with a couple of professional bike fits and discusses the effects these fitting sessions had on my riding.
Introduction
Up until fairly recently, professional bicycle fits have been the domain of elite racers. These racers seek out the ‘gurus of bike fit’ who help them eke every bit of power out of their cycling and gain every aerodynamic advantage they can.
Most people give credit for bringing pro bike fits to the masses to Ben Serotta. Serotta’s fit classes have helped hundreds of fitters to become certified from locations all around the United States. This certification process has made quality fittings become more commonplace over the last few years, so much so that fits are now within the reach of amateur racers.
There are several different fit philosophies out there, and each approaches bike fit from a different angle. One thing that sets each of these philosophies apart is the way they deal with body measurements; some rely on a more traditional ‘body measurement’ fit while others emphasize ‘dynamic fittiing’. Dynamic fitting takes a rider’s flexibility into account when they are measured, and the rider is fitted while actually riding their bicycle (or a specialized fitting bicycle). More traditional fits (for custom-made bikes) use static body measurements, such as inseam, torso length, and arm length, that are plugged into formulae for frame sizing and stem lengths.
Regardless of the exact fitting philosophy, the goal among good fitters is the same: to provide riders with the most power efficient cycling position that works with their unique biomechanics, injury history, and cycling discipline. Read the rest of this entry »
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In my first article on this subject I offered an introduction into the world of the weight weenie. There was a discussion of basic terminology, a few of the tools of the trade, and some online resources that you can use to get started down the never-ending path that all weight weenies follow.
In this installment, I discuss some of the specific things that you can do to drop those precious grams from your steed. I broke this article down into sections that discuss different areas of your bike so you can make little changes and see how these adjustments change the overall ride quality of your ride. Read the rest of this entry »
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If you read my recent article on cutting body weight, you’ll see that I suggested that it is more cost efficient for most people to focus on trimming body fat before worrying about cutting grams from their bikes. Having said that, my next two articles throw all of that practical advice out the window in favor of a discussion that really gets weight weenies going: cutting weight from your bike.
I’ll focus mainly on weight-weenieing (WW) from the perspective of a budget-minded rider but I’ll also touch upon some higher-priced options for reducing the weight of your ride. The first part of this two-part series looks at getting you started on the path towards the Dark Side and the second part discusses more specific ways to trim weight from your ride. Read the rest of this entry »
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You know how to get yourself ready to ride in the cold but what about your bike? You can be wrapped up and feel warmer than a cup of Tim Horton’s hot chocolate, but a winter mountain bike ride is only as fun as your bike allows it to be.
People winterize their cars by doing things such as putting on winter tires, going to lighter-weight oil, and changing to a washer fluid that can handle frigid temperatures. Getting a bike ready for winter is quite similar and, in order to have fun riding in snow and ice, you really need to take a few steps to ensure that you’re ready to go when it gets really cold. Here are a few tips… Read the rest of this entry »
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16 January »
Tech tips »
Cory
Adding to a good series of articles that focus on night riding, BikeMagic has a new piece that focuses on some of the different bike lighting options available to all you night owls out there. As a supplement up to a thorough entry on batteries and charging systems, the new article discusses the pros and cons of the most popular types of lighting systems, namely halogen, HID, and LED lights. It also covers the ins-and-outs of beam patterns, housings, and system controls.
For most riders, the information contained in this three-part series will be enough to make a well-informed decisions about lighting up their bikes and for those who want more, the series is definitely a good starting point.
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9 December »
Tech tips »
Cory
Following up an earlier piece on night riding, BikeMagic has a new writeup discussing the technical details of different types of batteries and chargers for bike lighting systems.
And, speaking of chargers, a North Vancouver company has developed a fuel cell that can power bike lights. Although the current version of the cell only replaces two AA batteries — something that makes the cell suitable for lower powered lights sometimes used by commuters — the technology could hold promise for adventure racers and 24 hour racers if developed to light higher power lights.
Don’t forget about the entry I wrote that was meant to be a primer for getting out on your bike in the dark. If you’re looking for a starting point on your journey into darkness, that piece is a good choice.
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22 November »
Tech tips »
Cory
A while back, I posted up some thoughts on night riding and the type of gear necessary to get out for some nocturnal trail action. However, given that I’m not a particularly experienced night rider (when I’m healthy, I make it out a few times per month), thoughts from others who are more experienced with this sort of thing are always welcome.
BikeMagic has a really good writeup on night riding that includes detailed information about the pros and cons of different lighting systems, how to set your lights up for night riding, and some basic techniques that are designed to make your time in the dark more enjoyable. It’s definitely worth the read if you’re into this type of thing.
Source: BikeMagic
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19 November »
Tech tips »
Cory
As I mentioned in my post on wet weather riding, my gear selection doesn’t need to change a whole lot over the winter. Sure, there are some cold days when I need to break out the knee warmers or a beanie for the climb up but, by and large, I don’t need to make any special adjustments in autumn and winter.
Of course, that’s not the case for many of you. Some riders use winter to focus on fitness training, while many riders simply hang up their bikes for the winter so they can focus on activities like skiing and snowboarding. Others take the change of seasons in stride and head out with appropriate gear and a different mindset. Bicycling Life has a good writeup on winter riding that discusses not only the winter-riding mindset but also the type of gear cold weather riders should consider. SheCycles has a great entry outlining the importance of, and ideas behind, wearing an effective base layer underneath your winter gear.
In addition to doing some basic research on the ‘net, the best thing you can do to find appropriate gear is to pay a visit to your local bike shop. A good shop knows what kind of gear works best in your area, and they’ll usually have it in stock so you can try things on and make sure the fit is what you’re looking for.
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19 November »
Tech tips »
Cory
I’m fortunate enough to live in a section of North America that doesn’t get really cold in the winter. However, it does get really wet and the weather does influence how often I can get out for a ride. This entry is meant to serve as a primer for the type of gear that makes riding in the rain or the snow tolerable, and even fun for some people.
When the temperature drops and the nice weather goes away, most riders adopt a different mindset: their focus is less on getting in the miles or riding fast down this or that trail and more on getting out, breathing in some fresh air, and enjoying themselves. Regardless of motivation, it’s still important to dress properly and make sure you don’t head out unprepared when the weather isn’t ideal.
Your best bet for finding good wet weather gear that’s designed for riding in your area is by paying a visit to your local bike shop. Good local shops know what gear works best in your area — they’ll have good thoughts on product durability and effectiveness.
Unlike many of you, I can wear pretty much the same gear all year round with the addition of a couple of pieces of clothing. For areas that experience a lot of rain, a good rain jacket is a must and, fortunately, a number of companies make quality gear. Companies like Helly Hansen and Race Face make quality jackets designed specifically for outdoor use in the wet. If you live in Canada or are comfortable with ordering online, be sure to check out Mountain Equipment Coop for a wide range of wet weather gear.
When it comes to wet weather gear below the belt, I prefer wearing shorts to pants, but that’s definitely personal preference. For the freeride set, companies like Mace Gear, Race Face, and a number of others (Fox, Troy Lee Designs, and Azonic come to mind) will get you hooked up with quality rain pants.
Other things? Some people swear by GoreTex socks, neoprene gloves, head covers, hydration pack covers, and stuff like that. All you really need to remember when you’re heading out in the rain is to be prepared and, just like in colder weather, it’s better to be overdressed than the other way around. I know from experience that “wet and cold” definitely isn’t better than plain old “wet”.
Also, make sure you know which trails are suitable for riding when it’s wet and muddy. As a trail builder, there are few things more frustrating than doing dirt work on a trail and then seeing someone roll or skid their way through, along with some comment about how moist the trails are.
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6 October »
Tech tips »
Cory
We’re now into early October and, for those of you who aren’t lucky enough to get out during the daytime, it’s time to break out those lights and get out for some night riding action. This writeup is meant both as a primer for nocturnal noobs and a refresher for those of you who can’t wait until darkness starts to come by 4:30 in the afternoon.
Some differences between night riding and daytime riding
The obvious difference between night riding and riding during the daytime is light. When you ride at night, familiar descents become more treacherous, with unseen snags reaching out from all angles trying to grab at derailleurs or twist your front wheel without warning. Similarly, unfamiliar climbs seem to go on forever; this makes pacing a little more difficult and sometimes leaves you spinning your wheels when you’re looking for more traction.
Because of these differences, one of the things I try to remember when I’m riding at night is to go a little slower, enjoy the ride, and try to get home in one piece. And since my riding schedule doesn’t include 24 hour endurance races, I don’t need to worry about winning or losing a race in the dark.
The other thing that you need to remember when heading out for night rides is that it’s colder in the evening. I prefer to layer up on night rides because I’m almost always cold for the first ten or fifteen minutes and looking for a bit more comfort until my heart rate increases and my body is more accustomed to its surroundings.
Types of light mounts – handlebar mounts vs head lamps
There are two different styles of mounts for bicycle lights: head lamps and bar mounted systems. Head lamps are affixed to the rider’s helmet, with a power cord running to a battery located in a hydration pack or a pocket in their clothing. Bar mounted systems are secured to the handlebar of your bike, with the battery pack usually being held in a water bottle cage on the frame.
Ideally, you’ll be able to run one of each type of system – one set of lights affixed to your bike and another to your helmet – but, obviously this isn’t an option for everybody. Personally, I prefer running a headlamp over a bar mounted system, if only because the headlamp points in the direction that I’m looking while I’m riding. If you have a tendency to look off into the bush at night, head mounted lights might not be the best option for you. I’d recommend trying out each system and deciding which is best for you; if your regular riding buddies don’t have any extra sets to go around, try and hook up with a group of riders that does.
There’s a very good writeup at MountainBikeAz.com that goes into a little more detail about the types of mounting systems for bike lights – check it out for another take on night riding.
Types of bicycle lighting systems
I’m not going to pretend I’m an expert in this field, since I know little about electrical systems or lighting technology. There’s a good writeup at Wikipedia discussing the numerous different types of lighting systems for bicycles. I’d suggest starting there and exploring further on your own.
Common brands of lights
There are a number of popular brands commonly affiliated with this niche in the mountain biking market. Companies like Cat Eye, Night Sun, Night Rider, and BLT have been around long enough that you can be sure you’re getting a quality product if you purchase one of their lights. There are other companies out there — many of which make excellent products — but be sure to do your research beforehand.
DIY lighting systems
If you’re really on a budget and don’t mind working on a lighting system yourself, there are a number of solid sources of information available on the Internet. One of the best set of home made bike light instructions that I’ve seen online provides simple, straight-forward directions, plenty of photos, and looks as though it creates a cheap, effective lighting system. If you choose to go this route, take your time, follow the instructions, and enjoy yourself.
Turn on the lights
This writeup isn’t meant to be the end all for information on riding your bike at night. Instead, I hope that it’s something that provides those of you who are moping around the house on a clear autumn or winter evening with the incentive to strap on your lights, gear up, and head out onto your local trails. Remember to have fun, be careful, and watch out for low hanging branches (or fallen trees)!
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